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26 August 2019 № 368


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Oscar Alvares from Bodegas Julian Chivite in Rostov-on-Don

The 28th of November Academy of Sommelier Mozart Wine House organized a regular tasting.

Mozart Wine House: Oscar, your enterprise is one of the most known in Navarra among the producers of high-quality wine. However you stay a family business.

Oscar Alvarez: The first documents proving that the family Chivite was wine-maker are dated 1647. Not every producer has such a long history. Our motherland is a small village at the South of Navarra — Sintruenigo. Royal family in the time of Isabella II used to drink wine of our household. Our family kept the land from than till now that is why we keep our traditions.

MWH: But it is not easy ton call you traditionalists.

OA: Sure! Nowadays nobody can be called traditionalist. Julian Chivite reconstructed the winery for the first time in 1948 according to the modern standarts. And now it is silly to refuse the welfare of the civilization while wine-making.

MWH: We can feel it in your wines.

ОА: You are right. Our style is not considered typical for Navarra. Or even Spanish. We could divide our wines into gastronomic and unique cru.

MWH: Saying unique cru, you mean Pago de Arinzano?

OA: You should understand that we have two wineries. First of them is in the South in Sintruenigo, the other, Senorio de Arinsano — one hundred kilometers to North. And the soil and the microclimate of the regions are absolutely different. Sintuenigo where we make Gran Feudo is highly infuenced by Mediterrenian, Arinzano is like Bordeaux terroir wiht cool wind of Atlantic.

MWH: But Pago category is not just terroir?

OA: Of course, this vineyard we have bought relatively recently — in early 80th. The vine was completly replanted. Previous owners couldn’t even imagine what a marvel they had. We know every meter of these 300 hectares. The status of Pago we received only in 2008 after seven year of accordance. Finally there are only six of such lands in Spain.

MWH: Your Chardonnay Coleccion125 is also very interesting.

OA: This wine is our proud. The vineyard is situated very high, limestone, south-east exposition give us an extraordinary mineral and viscous chardonnay which we age and ferment in oak. That is why we get a wine comparable with some serious Burgundy wine.

MWH: I guess that the weather influences the wine a lot.

OA: Absolutely, every vintage differs a lot from another. It is possible to improve the quality through selection of the grape. In our region the climate is mild and we don’t get too bad harvest. This year the quantity if gathered grape is less to 20% than the previous year, but the balance of sugar, tannins and acidity is perfect.

MWH: Which vintages you find exceptional for your region?

OA: We’ve got all the harvests of Collecion 125 since 1992, the one called legendary. Also 1993, 1998, 2000 and 2002. As I said we don’t nave lost years, these are find the most interesting for aging.

MWH: Thank you very much for this interview, and good luck!

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